91 points, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate
January 2006
The negociant reds include the serious 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape (60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre). Aromas of soy, blueberries, blackberries, creosote, tar, licorice, herbes de Provence, and meat emerge from this full-bodied, dense, moderately tannic red. It should drink well for 10-12 years.
Proprietor Louis Barruol is one of the two finest producers of Gigondas (his wines rival those of Yves Gras’ Santa Duc), and also has a burgeoning negociant operation dedicated to making tasty wines. Readers should note that the estate wines are bottled under the Chateau Saint-Cosme label, and the negociant wines, made from purchased wines or grapes, are simply called Saint-Cosme.
A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218
90-92 points, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate
January 2004
Barruol is a sharp guy who realizes that even though he was born, raised, and has his home vineyard in Gigondas, the greatest appellation of the southern Rhone is Chateauneuf du Pape, not Gigondas. He has access to some fabulous old vine Grenache plots, mixed with about 20% Mourvedre, from such sites as La Crau and Valoris. His outstanding, deep ruby-hued 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits elegant sweet cherry and briery notes intermixed with Provencal herbs, ground pepper, and earth in a full-bodied, layered, moderately tannic format. It will benefit from 1-2 years of cellaring, and should keep for 10-12 years.
By the way, 2002 is a horrendous vintage in the southern Rhone. I do not say that lightly, because there are some producers who made very competent wines, but my scores for that vintage tended to plateau at 87-88. However, one of the top 2002s is the Chateau St.-Cosme 2002 Gigondas, a wine that I rated 88. Tasty and sexy with fine ripeness, it reveals no signs of dilution or greenness.
The young Barruol is indeed a talented winemaker who exhibits a magical touch that is well beyond his youthful age with so many different types of wine.
A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218
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