90 points, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate February 2008 Dramatically different from its 2005 counterpart, the 2004 Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence is scented with celery seed, citrus rind, rose petals, and narcissus. Lacking the richness of the 2005, it partly makes up for this in sheer juiciness of fruit, and elegant length, remarkably refreshing for its grape of origin not to mention for a wine of considerable sweetness. No doubt one could enjoy this over 5-7 years. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!
About 2004 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence
About the Winery Domaine Weinbach At the foot of the majestic Schlossberg hill stands Domaine Weinbach, one of the finest estates in all of Alsace. It is run with consummate skill and total dedication by Colette Faller and her two daughters: Catherine as marketing director and Laurence as winemaker. They have the fortune to be working on some of the best soil in Frence, most notably the prestigious "Schlossberg" vineyard, the first terroir in Alsace to have received the status of Grand Cru. The Grand Cru "Furstentum," Grand Cru "Mambourg" and the adjacent "Altenbourg" vineyards make up much of the rest of the domaine's 62 acres of land, all rising above the "Clos des Capucins" vineyard, established in 1612 by the Order of Capucin monks. The grapes are hand-harvested, pressed directly as whole clusters in modern horizontal pnuematic presses. After maturation in large, ancient oak casks using only indigenous yeasts, the wine is filtered and then bottled, starting in April and finishing in mid-July. The result is an exceptional portfolio of wines noted for their balance, finesse, intensity and concentration. Famed critic Robert Parker is convinced that "Colette and her daughter Laurence...pushed Weinbach to the pinnacle of Alsace's qualitative pyramid," producing some of the most richly concentrated top-tier wines in France.
About the Wine Weinbach's Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence comes from the mainly limestone soil just beneath the actual Altenbourg site. Similar to the Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence, this wine is quite full-bodied and lush with a thick texture. Aromas range from honey and floral notes to spice and grilled nuts, pairing well with exotic dishes and fatty cheeses.
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