2005 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir
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2005 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir
1500 ml
France: Burgundy: Cote de Nuits: Morey St Denis: Clos de la Roche > Pinot Noir
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Reviews of 2005 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir
99 points, Burghound January 2008 All the superb and dramatic complexity that this displayed from barrel has made it into bottle as an extremely ripe and fantastically broad nose soars from the glass, merging seamlessly into dense, pure rich and powerful flavors that are opulent, sweet and dripping with so much extract and sap that the combination stains and saturates the palate on the hugely proportioned yet impeccably balanced finish that is so long that it doesn't seem possible. Given how many reference standard vintages Domaine Ponsot has produced of the Clos de la Roche over the years, it would be presumptuous to anoint this as the best ever but if it isn't, it will certainly take its rightful place among the very greatest. In sum, a 'wow' wine that makes you shake your head in sheer amazement. However be aware that this is a buy and forget wine as it will require at least 15 years to shed its considerable tannins and it will see 50 years without difficulty.
96-98 points, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate April 2007 The estate’s flagship 2005 Clos de la Roche Cuvee Vieilles Vignes surges from the glass in an aromatic tidal wave of liqueur-like black raspberry essence, cinnamon spice, praline, chocolate and heady floral sweetness. Incontrovertibly fat and full, not about clarity or discretion but rather about thick, sumptuous layers of flavor that blanket the palate, this will not be every taster’s idea of a great Burgundy – or perhaps even a good time. Still, there is lift, bright juiciness and a sense of emerging elegance in a finish where sheer intensity and unabashed richness rule but neither the fruit nor tannins are the least bit coarse, and stony, chalky underpinnings break the surface with their own sort of austere beauty. (Thankfully, there is roughly ten times the amount of this wine as of Clos St.-Denis.) Laurent Ponsot (like his father) vinifies to the beat of a different drummer, whether it is in his employment of a basket press from 1945, his reliance on exclusively (truly) old barrels, his aggressive pigeage, or his virtual refusal (since 1988) to sulfur the wines (nitrogen and CO2 are administered at bottling). The results are as distinctive as the methods, but also profoundly impressive and proven to age magnificently. Certainly one has to adjust to a background level of chocolate and that lack of a certain “pep” that is otherwise conveyed, MSG-wise, to wines given a normal quota of sulfur during their elevage. But after a few samples – and especially when I re-tasted these wines “cold” at 7:00 A.M. – I was fully attuned to their virtues. The alcohols in 2005 are as high as 15%, but you do not notice it, even when told. Asked when he intends to bottle, Ponsot replies “I don’t know. Maybe one or two in the Spring, maybe before the harvest, maybe afterward.”
95-99 points, Stephen Tanzer March 2007 (racked three days before my visit) Full ruby-red. Knockout nose melds black cherry, violet, licorice and brown spices; this is wild yet aristocratic in a Chambertin way. Densely packed, silky and incredibly intense, with palate-saturating flavors of black cherry, spices, minerals and bitter chocolate. As remarkably rich as this is (it's carrying 15% alcohol, according to Ponsot), there's no impression of undue weight. This is old-vines Clos de la Roche in all its savage splendor. Endless finish. Should make a cellar treasure.
About 2005 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir
About the Winery Domaine Ponsot
William Ponsot established the Domaine in 1772 after the Prussian war.
Included in the Domaine’s vineyards are a fine selection of Grand Crus
in Gevrey and Morey. The Ponsots were among the first in Burgundy to
acknowledge the significance of, and to use, clones. Additionally, the
Domaine has provided the mother vines for most of today’s finest
PinotNoir clones. Laurent Ponsot uses as little herbicide as possible
to avoid infecting the soil and developing resistance, and he harvest
late, hoping to benefit from maximum ripeness. Yields are low,
averaging 20-23 hectoliters per hectare (1.14-1.31 tons/acre).
Traditional wine-making methods are utilized; the wine is not filtered,
nor is sulphur used. The handpicked, rot- excised grapes are passed
through a Demoisy crusher-stemmer; the machine also removes any grapes
affected by dry rot. The grapes are mostly destemmed, although a few
stems may be left if deemed necessary. No new oak is used and wines are
fined before bottling. It can be up to 24 months before the wines are
bottled. Clos de la Roche, the Ponsot domaine’s largest holding, is one
of the four fine tete du cuvée vineyards in the little town of Morey-St
Denis. It produces one of the great wines of Burgundy - deeply colored,
spicy, rich and often quite firm. This vineyard, running north from
Morey-St Denis and sharing its border with Latriciéres-Chambertin at
the southern end of the great Chambertin vineyards, is justifiably
noted for wines that age well. “At their finest, Ponsot’s wines are
classic examples of great red burgundy. While rich and accessible
enough to be drunk young, they are capable of lasting 20-30 years,
making Ponsot one of a handful of Burgundy growers committed to making
long-lived wines.” -Robert Parker, Jr. The Wine Advocate
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