90 points, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate February 2008 Originating largely in the lower, slopes of the Schlossberg (with more particulate matter), the 2005 Riesling Cuvee Saint Catherine also incorporates parcels from just outside that cru. Almond, honey, lemon oil, peaches, and pungent hints of botrytis spice in the nose prepare the way for a densely-concentrated, rich, oily-textured, pungently spicy and faintly bitter palate that lacks the refinement, clarity, or precision of the Schlossberg bottling. Tactile fruit skin and botrytis give the non-sweet finish of this Riesling a certain gritty extension that offers counterpoint to its honey and peaches. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!
91 points, Stephen Tanzer July 2007 ($49; bottled with a glass stopper) Pale green. Complex aromas of citrus skin, ripe peach and spices, with a tangy whiff of botrytis. Spicy, dense and rich but quite backward and wound-up. This, too, is classically dry in style, with nearly exotic mace and nutmeg notes perking up the palate. Finishes very dry and very long, with flavors of pineapple and dusty stone. Penetrating and rather austere-in need of aging. This is mostly from the bottom of the Schlossberg, but 20% of the wine comes from outside the grand cru border.
90 points, Wine Spectator June 2007 Apple and floral aromas and flavors gain added complexity when mixed with hints of orange peel, honey and white pepper. Racy acidity and minerality lead to a fresh, tangy finish. Drink now through 2012. 180 cases imported. –BS
About 2005 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Cuvee Ste Catherine Riesling
About the Winery Domaine Weinbach At the foot of the majestic Schlossberg hill stands Domaine Weinbach, one of the finest estates in all of Alsace. It is run with consummate skill and total dedication by Colette Faller and her two daughters: Catherine as marketing director and Laurence as winemaker. They have the fortune to be working on some of the best soil in Frence, most notably the prestigious "Schlossberg" vineyard, the first terroir in Alsace to have received the status of Grand Cru. The Grand Cru "Furstentum," Grand Cru "Mambourg" and the adjacent "Altenbourg" vineyards make up much of the rest of the domaine's 62 acres of land, all rising above the "Clos des Capucins" vineyard, established in 1612 by the Order of Capucin monks. The grapes are hand-harvested, pressed directly as whole clusters in modern horizontal pnuematic presses. After maturation in large, ancient oak casks using only indigenous yeasts, the wine is filtered and then bottled, starting in April and finishing in mid-July. The result is an exceptional portfolio of wines noted for their balance, finesse, intensity and concentration. Famed critic Robert Parker is convinced that "Colette and her daughter Laurence...pushed Weinbach to the pinnacle of Alsace's qualitative pyramid," producing some of the most richly concentrated top-tier wines in France.
About the Wine Riesling is the prized grape of Alsace and also holds a special place at Domaine Weinbach. The domain's Rieslings have a fine and delicate fruitiness, tend to be racy, nervy, dry, and long on the palate. They can be opulent and concentrated, pairing well with various foods such as cooked or raw fish, shellfish and seafood, coq au vin, some white meat dishes, and goat cheese.
Weinbach's Riesling Cuvee Sainte Catherine comes from the lower portion of the Schlossberg hill, picked later in the year as is typical for the cuvee. It has prominent notes of tropical fruits like papaya, guava, and pineapple mixed with citrus flavors of mandarin orange and tangerine. It also exhibits peach, lime and ginger and has a respectably long, mineral finish.
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