93 -95 points,

Burghound, May 2011

This is especially ripe, indeed to the point where there are notes of dry Porto yet, almost incongruously, it seems fresh. There are also notes of spice, animale and cassis-liqueur, all of which can be found on the rich, powerful and impressively concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract that renders the particularly firm tannins almost invisible. This deceptive amiability will not last for long though as the hallmark austerity is already apparent and this is going to require close to 20 years to fully realize its considerable potential. - Comments: Sweet spot

About Winery

This historic estate was established in 1834. Claude de Nicolay took over from her mother as winemaker in 1988 and crafts traditionally styled wines from one of the Cote d'Or's great terroirs, the hill of Corton and its surrounding villages.  The vineyard management has been fully biodynamic since 2005 and organic since 1998.

The earth is coming back to life in Burgundy after so many years of abuse from pesticides, herbicides and fungicides.  The result here, under the direction of Claude Drouhin and François de Nicolay (sister & brother), is fruit that is rich, but maintains excellent acidity levels.  It was the dropping acidity levels, which led many producers to forego their chemical vineyard treatments for a cleaner, healthier system of vineyard management.  Yields here average only 35 hectoliters per hectare.

        

At this domaine, there is no new oak used.  They prefer to purchase 1-2 year old barrels from other top domaines in northern Burgundy.  This enables the pure Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit to come forward, un-muddled by strong oak flavors.  In addition, the elusive terroir, which is everything in Burgundy, is allowed to come through.  In fact, tasting several wines at a time from producers like Chandon de Briailles is the best way for the uninitiated to grasp the meaning of terroir, the French term that refers to the impact that specific soil, weather and site have on the final wine.