My favorite vintage from this château to drink today is the superb 1985 Léoville Barton, a sumptuous, demonstrative wine that bursts with aromas of cedary currant fruit, plums, loamy soil and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and charming, with an enveloping core of fruit, melting tannins, ripe acids and a long, expansive finish, it's at its peak today but in no danger of imminent decline. - William Kelley