The 1985 Pape Clément is an outstanding example of the vintage. The beautiful bouquet is a complex and very refined blend of black cherries, gentle meatiness, nutskin, a marvelously complex base of dark soil tones, cigar smoke, herbs and a deft touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, poised and velvety, with a great core of fruit, melting tannins, tangy acids and outstanding length and grip on the complex and utterly classic finish. What a great era for this iconic property, which has so sadly lots its way in recent times.

Tasted at The Swan in Southwold. The ’85 Pape-Clement is the epitome of the “old style” that I kinda miss. Pure Graves on the nose: autumn leaves decaying in a muddy puddle, dried Provencal herbs, chestnut and a touch of wild mushroom. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied and there is something that remind me of “sweet ‘n sour” on the entry: lush, fleshy red-berried fruit. Quite rustic but harmonious, not complex but long, with a touch of allspice on the aftertaste. Lovely.