It is hard to argue with those who claim that the finest of these single-vineyard offerings is always the Sori Tilden. The 1996 Sori Tilden reveals a pigmented/saturated ruby/purple color in addition to a tight nose with aromas of blackberries cherry liqueur smoke licorice incense and spice box. Enormous on the palate with multiple layers of fruit soft tannin huge body and a knock-out finish it is backward and brawny. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. As I reported in issue #124 (8-27-99) 1996 is a spectacular vintage for Angelo Gaja. There is a lot of speculation as to why he has dropped the name Barbaresco from the labels of his single-vineyard wines but given his personality and overall commitment to quality it can only be to improve the quality and give him some flexibility in difficult vintages to produce a wine that may or may not be 100% Nebbiolo. At least that's how I view it. Importer: Vinifera Imports Ronkonkoma NY; tel. (516) 467-5907

Aromas of tar ripe fruit and light oak follow through to a full-bodied palate with chewy tannins and a long finish. Still a bit tight. Muscular and a little unyielding but impressive. Needs more time.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2008. 837 cases made. –JS