If slightly chocolaty and a touch riper in overall character than either of its two siblings this big mouthfilling working still has more than enough fruit going for it and its slightly stark tannins are countered by an unmistakable sense of incipient suppleness. Like its mates it is not one for near-term drinking and there is no question that its insistent themes of concentrated currants will carry it through to a tasty maturity after its youthful toughness has been tamed by seven or eight years of time in the cellar.

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill (also the 30th anniversary cuvee of this 8 acre vineyard) reveals a saturated purple color as well as an explosive bouquet that is almost medieval in its black currant notes intermixed with distinctive spicy earthy smoky characteristics. Medium to full-bodied and rich with low acidity ripe fruit and a dense layered impressive personality it is more backward than the Gravelly Meadow less elegant but more powerful and concentrated. Its elegance will take longer to emerge but it should certainly be there. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020.