Dried apricots, pears, honey, mint and Chamomile are some of the many nuances that flesh out in Le Brun Servenay’s 2004 Brut Millesime Vieilles Vignes Exhilarante. I especially like the way the 2004 fleshes out in all directions, with seemingly endless layers of sweet perfumed fruit and fabulous balance. Deep, rich and creamy, the 2004 is notable for its fabulous balance and utterly compelling personality. There is plenty of structure and power in the glass, suggesting the 2004 is best enjoyed at the dinner table. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. - Antonio Galloni

A lively bead supports the flavors of orange sorbet, yellow peach, candied grapefruit zest and graham cracker in this tightly knit, vivacious version, which delivers a clean, citrusy finish, revealing a hint of chalky mineral. Drink now through 2025. 350 cases made. –AN