It's impossible not to fall in love with the 2004 San Leonardo. This may well be the greatest wine made by the estate (equal to the delightful 1990) thanks to the infinite, ever-shifting complexity on display. It's hard to know where to start: Bright fruit aromas segue to spice and leather and then segue to cola and balsam herb. Blue flower and button mushroom also make brief, but meaningful appearances. This iconic vintage started with a wet spring and moved forward to a dry, warm harvest period. Give the wine another ten years to find its footing. If you serve it in the near term, allow three hours for decanting. - Monica Larner

Well-focused and fresh, just starting to show some age, with fine-grain tannins and layered flavors of ripe and dried currant, violet, creamy black licorice, dried mint, fragrant tobacco and lots of aromatic ground spices. Lightly chewy on the smoke- and espresso-laced finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Drink now through 2019. –AN