As we head up to the northern stretches of the Médoc, the colour deepens, and this looks altogether younger than the more southerly Haut-Médocs. Classic, balanced, earthy, still fairly closed and should continue to evolve and improve over the next few years. A ton of eucalyptus, crushed blackberry fruit, very much Cabernet dominant, with a mouthwatering juicy finish. Understated, lean and savoury overall, a little vegetal on the finish but this is old school Bordeaux in a glass from owner and founder Jean Gautreau. Harvest September 19 to October 6.

Tasted single blind at Southwold. This has a very fresh, vibrant nose with good definition: blackberry, tar, scorched earth and a touch of leather. Has a certain lightness of touch on the bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with fine earthy tannins, backward, nice focus, a slight bitterness and greenness but it only adds freshness and poise. Backward and surly on the finish but good breeding. Superb. Drink 2012-2030.

93+ It’s hard not to admire the brilliant Jean Gautreau, who has run this great terroir and estate (just to the north of St-Estèphe’s Château Montrose) with meticulous perfection for decades. The 2005 is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. Offering beautifully sweet crème de cassis and blueberries, this is concentrated essence of blue and black fruits, with some underlying minerality, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and stunning texture, length and purity. This is superb Sociando Mallet, with surprisingly sweet tannin, which is even more remarkable in this vintage of high and occasionally hard tannins. Give it another 4-5 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 30 years. - Robert M. Parker, Jr.