Still shrouded by its bacony toast this has a lot to resolve but the massive core of blackberry black currant fig loam dark tobacco and molten chocolate is very impressive. The finish shows the grip and balance of the vintage boding well for serious cellaring. Best from 2009 through 2032. 1500 cases made. -JM

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (90% Grenache and equal parts Mourvedre and Syrah) comes primarily from the famed sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as La Crau. This is a beautiful wine that is more elegant than the regular Chateauneuf du Pape with raspberry and kirsch liqueur notes a deep ruby color finesse acidity and ripe tannin. It seems to be a terroir-based statement of Chateauneuf du Pape that cuts a style midway between the traditionalists and the modernists. This wine will need several years of bottle age and should drink nicely for 15 or more years. Introduced first in 2001 Michel Tardieu makes a traditional Chateauneuf du Pape from 100% Grenache and 100% stems. He believes the wine needs at least 5-7 years of bottle age and then is meant to last 25-30 years.