Taut and mineral, this is currently a wine that is waiting to reveal its power and majesty. The fruit is on a tight rein of acidity, which only slowly opens up to show mango, pineapple, crisp citrus, layers of toast and a mouth-enveloping richness. Age for at least five years, preferably 10.

Wafting from the glass with a ripe bouquet of sun-kissed peaches, honeyed yellow orchard fruit, mandarin orange and oatmeal, the 2006 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, broad and unctuous, with a rich, satiny-textured attack, a fleshy mid-palate and a long, heady finish. Stylistically, this is the polar opposite of the 2004 Chevalier, reflecting the warm, sunny vintage. This dates from the period where Anne-Claude Leflaive was keen to pick the grapes according to the biodynamic calendar, but Brice de La Morandière believes that the Chevalier was brought in before the thunderstorms that arrived mid-harvest. - William Kelley

Ripe and almost opulent with lemon pastry apricot and spice elements that are broad on the attack. Though open now there's a vibrant structure and a long finish. This was the better of three bottles. Best from 2012 through 2022. 107 cases imported. -BS