A good dose of air coaxes out the maturing aromas and flavors of sandalwood, leather, underbrush, sweet cherry and mineral. This intriguing red displays lightness and elegance without sacrificing structure or intensity. Features a savory finish. Best from 2015 through 2032. 375 cases made. –BS

As you can see from my photo of the wine stains representing the various bottles poured at this historic tasting, we had initially planned to pour Gianfranco Soldera's 1990 Brunello di Montalcino. Unfortunately, I deemed the bottles we sourced unfit for presentation and I opted for the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva as backup. Despite the much younger vintage, this wine seemed like the oldest of the bunch based on appearance alone. Sangiovese has a hard time keeping its color intact with aging and this wine underlines that point. The bouquet was intact, on the other hand, with dried fruit, cola and balsam herb. There is an evolved quality with fine dustings of mineral and licorice that add depth and personality at the back. This is a classic vintage resulting in wines that are tight and compact at the back. These qualities will help to maintain the wine's progression over the next ten years. - Monica Larner