In contrast to the relative expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is much more restrained with an airy but discreet nose of wet stone, fresh flower and citrus notes that slide gracefully into precise, vibrant and impressively dense middle weight flavors where the intensity does a slow build from the mid-palate all the way to the palate staining and hugely long finish. A gorgeous blend of power and elegance without undue weight. Sweet spot Outstanding ♥

From septuagenarian vines just above Montrachet, the Maltroye 2007 Chassagne Montrachet Dents de Chien offers striking transparency to a dynamic, shimmering palate interchange of diverse mineral and citrus, along with a sense of lift and a silken textural refinement that sets it apart from the other wines in this year’s collection. Musk and narcissus notes waft throughout, and ripe peach serves for persistent succulence. This finishes with a grip like live jumper cables and practically made my hair stand up. I’m not sure what direction it will take in bottle, but it seems to be daring you to find out, and I would certainly expect close to a decade of stimulation and fascination in the course of discovering. - David Schildknecht