89+ A Girardin 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot displays heliotrope and fresh lemon in the nose; a bright but almost austerely chalky and firm palate impression; and a finish in which pear and lemon are a bit dominated by an impression of chalk dust and by resin and vanilla from barrel. This seems to be in an awkward spot right now, although its concentration and energy are impressive and I suspect it will be worthy following for half a dozen or more years. - David Schildknecht