A big opulent pleasure bomb with lavish layers loaded thickly on top of each other. Chocolate fudge dark cherry blackberry preserves rum cake prune exotic spice pipe tobacco cola hummus and leather. Huge personality and intensity. Staying power too. All that density is backed by solid tannins and a steady firmness. Hold 10-15 more years. - M.L.

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino bursts from the glass with freshly cut flowers violets leather licorice and black cherries. Firm underlying tannins lend vibrancy to the voluptuous fruit. The Casanova di Neri straight bottling - sometimes referred to as the "white label" - is made from some of the estate's cooler sites. In 2007 the wine has more depth fruit and overall harmony than is typically the case. Bright acidity frames the long polished finish. In short this is a fabulous wine from Giacomo Neri. Along with the 2006 the 2007 is one the best and most complete vintages I can remember tasting in some time. Most importantly of all though it is flat-out delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. --- Antonio Galloni