The Perrot-Minot 2008 Chambolle Musigny Les Echanges Vieilles Vignes smells of ripe blackberries with resinous caramelized suggestions of maple syrup and a smoky sweet intimation of machine oil. Combining overt density and metaphorically sinister flavor shadings with an invigorating dash of salt and refreshing flow of tart berry fruit this fits a stylistic pattern for the present collection with faintly bitter earthy notes of fruit pit beet root and espresso and black tea lending fascinating complexity to its long finish. I would advise 3-5 years' patience and expect this to perform well past age ten. --- David Schildknecht