Game bacon fat and soy; licorice and violet; blackberry and cassis make for a complex aromatic display in Gauby's 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes. Firm and bright this offers impressions of chalk and crushed stone as vivid as any you are apt to encounter. There is a multi-layered yet dynamic complexity here exceptional even by the exalted standards of this estate. Crushed stone peat humus garrigue game and black fruits accumulate without any sense of weight and the finish here clings with sappy intensity and invigorating energy. I would anticipate at least a dozen years of high-performance. -DS