With its concentrated yellow fruits, this is already a powerful wine. It is packed with acidity, toast, peach flavors and minerality, starting out as a gorgeously rich wine from a ripe vintage. Of course, it will age over many years; open in 10 years.

This beauty displays the hallmark Bienvenues nose of honeysuckle citrus and pear that is very much in keeping with the rich intense and palate etching flavors that exude a fine minerality on the refined pure and harmonious finish that is very Zen-like. The Leflaive BBM can in some vintages more resemble a Bâtard and in others the Pucelles. In 2009 it's neither as it doesn't have the weight and power of its grand cru sibling but there's definitely more depth and weight than in the Pucelles. But what impresses me more is just how refined this is even in the context of a vintage that is not naturally given to much refinement. A knockout and for the first time in recent memory this is every bit as good as the Bâtard in 2009.

Tucked into the lower, northern corner of Bâtard, Bienvenues holds some of Domaine Leflaive’s oldest vines, 2.84 acres planted in 1958 and ’59. It was in an effort to sustain those vines that Anne-Claude Leflaive and Pierre Morey turned to biodynamics in the early 1990s, their success leading them to convert the entire domaine in 1997. The root systems of those ancient vines focus this wine more on its soil character than its grand cru siblings, with their sunnier dispositions. This leads you on with floral scents of honeycomb and vanilla, then sucks you down through layer upon layer of earth, brightness and darkness in flashes of delicacy and brooding power. While the Bâtard is blunt in its richness, this is energized in its terroir expression, as if to share the insistence of Madame Leflaive herself that these 50-year-old vines will persevere.

The 2009 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet is dazzling from start to finish. Silky and seamless at first the wine impresses for its impeccable balance and tons of class. Chalky mineral notes appear later adding length freshness and verve while floral notes add the last flourishes of elegance. This is all silk and cashmere especially on the finish. The Bienvenues seems to hover on the palate inhabiting in the stratosphere reserved for just a handful of the world's truly great wines. Anticipated maturity: 2017+.-Antonio Galloni

Nervy and exciting. Hints of excitement to come and some biodynamic wildness but still fragile. Lemon and weight and still pretty brutally embryonic – the Grand Cru version of the Puligny village wine. Lots of weight but still pretty crude. Very good wild-flower finish. 17.5++/20