Born from grapes grown in one of the most acclaimed sites in Carneros and showing the fruity depth, the careful construction and the polish that only comes in outstanding years and from an accomplished hand, Ramey's Hyde bottling is a many-layered Chardonnay of great verve and vitality. Its neatly trim adjuncts of sweet oak never threaten to upstage the bright and slightly blossomy young fruit that runs its length, and subtle minerally accents lend a twist of real complexity. It, too, is a wine best left to aging, and there seems little question but that it will continue to grow for many years.

The 2009 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is another of the wines that emphasizes textural depth and body. This is a relatively plush, rich Chardonnay endowed with considerable volume in its apricot and tangerine fruit. The aromas and flavors move towards the more tropical end of the spectrum, but without fully reaching that level of exoticness. Readers who appreciate a more full-bodied style of Chardonnay will love the Hyde. I especially like the way the wine turns delicate with time in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. - Antonio Galloni