Ripe and fleshy but old-school with tobacco brick dust and cocoa notes framing the core of cassis black cherry and linzer torte. There's a muscular edge on the finish where an iron note lingers. Best from 2012 through 2022. -JM

Readers looking for a seductive fix made from mostly Grenache (98% ) and the rest Cinsault and Clairette (because it's a field blend) should check out the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape A La Gloire de Mon Grandpere. Produced from 70- to 100-year vines this is a decadent Grenache with huge amounts of opulent kirsch liqueur notes a lusty full-bodied mouthfeel plenty of glycerin and I am sure 15+% alcohol.