Only bottled in magnums, the 2009 Barolo Briccotto is superb on all levels. This wine will not appeal to everyone, especially those with a penchant for traditional Barolo. Nonetheless, it is a monumental effort that seeks to challenge the outer limits of Nebbiolo’s depth and opulence. It tries to provoke not just a smile, but an all-out belly laugh, from Italy’s most pensive and introspective grape. Mocha, tar, black cherry, leather, toasted hazelnut and bitter chocolate are all part of the tease. The mouthfeel is exceedingly smooth and seductive. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. - Monica Larner