The maiden 2012 Aeolian Pinot Noir is named after the wind and comes from vines planted 1994-1999 on the estate. Apparently, the wind causes a bifurcation in quality, especially on the west side of the property. It was picked October 5-14 at 23.9 Brix and aged for 11 months in French oak, 40% new barrel. The bouquet is very appealing and in my mind, superior to the Pinot Noir Estate, better defined and demonstrating more mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannins. There is a pleasant prickle of spice, salted licorice and black truffle toward the finish. This is an understated Pinot Noir but one that is full of class. - Neal Martin

Dark, youthful and vinous, this bracing pinot is true to its name, bearing the mark of the winds that buffet the Bethel Heights estate. The flavors are forward, pure purple plum and black cherry girded by a wind-bitten firmness that registers as mineral and deep. Decant for duck with cherry sauce. (2,930 cases)