I feel like the consistency and quality of Torbreck's flagship wine has only increased over time. The 2012 RunRig is gorgeously floral and vibrant, with concentrated red berries, characteristic weight and intensity on the palate and supple, silky tannins. It's delicious now, but it should age gracefully through at least 2035. - JC

RunRig is always complex, and the 2012 doesn't disappoint in that regard, mixing bacony-meaty notes with hints of black olives and ripe plums. The tannins are supremely supple, but the acids are crisp, resulting in a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now–2030. JOE CZERWINSKI

Founder Dave Powell singled out old vineyards principally in the north-west Barossa, where it is drier and yields are super-low. This hedonistic Shiraz Viognier has a pure velvet punch of crushed red cherry, bilberry, blackberry and raspberry fruit, with confit notes and a hint of tar alongside chocolate and oak vanillin. A raft of old vine spice and minerality brings savoury balance and, with a kick of alcohol, great gravelly, peppery resonance. (Drink between 2017-2030)

Big, broad and generous, this is a towering presence, layering sharply focused blackberry, dark plum, cherry and exotic spice flavors atop polished tannins. Has tremendous power and persistence. Shiraz and Viognier. Drink now through 2030. From Australia. — H.S.