A beautifully elegant nose features notes of Meyer lemon along with evident brioche, green apple, pear and discreet floral scents. There is excellent punch and detail to the delicious and intense flavors that are shaped by a relatively firm but fine mousse before culminating in a clean and markedly dry finish, indeed this is drier than the 5 g/l of dosage would suggest. This is certainly extremely pretty but if there’s a nit it’s that there isn’t a great deal of complexity and as such I would be inclined to hold this for a few years first as there will almost certainly be more depth in the offing. 2019+

A nice interplay between richness and an underlying mineral element keeps this Champagne interesting. Peach grapefruit and toast flavors mingle as this firms up on the finish. Harmonious. Drink now through 2012. 35 cases imported. -BS

90+ The Brut Selection from Le Brun Servenay is comprised entirely of chardonnay from the three grand cru villages of Cramant, Avize and Oger, though it is not labeled as a Blanc de Blancs. The wine is aged for three years on the fine lees, with the malos blocked for the vins clairs and the wine finished off with a dosage of seven grams per liter. The current release is base year 2011, with reserve wines back to 2008 included and the bottling was disgorged in December of 2014. Today, this is still a very young wine, but with plenty of promise for down the road. The youthful bouquet is a blend of apple, tart pear, chalky minerality, a touch of smokiness and bread dough. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely mineral, with a good core, frothy mousse, plenty of acidity and a long, focused and still quite primary finish. There is a touch of youthful greenness here on the backend that needs to be waited out, but a year from now, this wine should be singing and be an outstanding drink. 2016-2033+.