From a north-facing site that has consequently been denied the premier cru appellation, the 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Courtelongs has turned out very well, unfurling to reveal notions of green apple, orange oil, buttery...

Lemons, salted butter, white apricots and white grapefruits here, with toasted nuts too. It’s medium-bodied with a tasty roasted nut character lending opulence, yet balanced by bright acidity. Drink now.

Silky and bordering on racy, with lemon, apple and floral flavors benefiting from crisp acidity. Light-bodied, focused and long, this delivers elegance and precision. Drink now through 2027. 2,562 cases made, 215 cases...