With more than 7,000 chateaux, France’s Bordeaux region is the most important wine producing region in the world. As well as being the basis for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wines everywhere, Bordeaux wines are acknowledged to be among the world’s best reds—according to experts and amateurs alike.
The wine region of Bordeaux is comprised of many smaller areas and encompasses both banks of the Gironde estuary in southwest France, as well as the land bordering the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, which split off from the Gironde in the southern Medoc area. Generally, Bordeaux's best red wines are from seven major (and well-known) appellations: Pauillac, Saint-Estephe, Saint-Julien, and Margaux in the greater Medoc region, Graves to the south of the city of Bordeaux—in the region’s center, and Saint-Emilion and Pomerol toward the east. The large Graves region, as well as being the birthplace of claret, is home to many of the best dry whites. Premium sweet wines are made in Sauternes and Barsac, which are also within the Graves appellation but toward the south.
In understanding the multitude of Bordeaux wines, experts tend to talk about the right and left banks of the Gironde River. Generally, red wines from the river’s left bank, especially from Bordeaux’s Medoc region, are based on Cabernet Sauvignon, mixed with varying amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc and, occasionally, a spot of Petit Verdot and Malbec. These reds are known to be firm and dry, with a substantial tannic spine, and are frequently austere in their youth. They are also among the world’s longest-lived. The Graves’ gravel and sand soil content contribute to more texture early and roasted accents of hot stones, smoke and tobacco.
The softer Merlot grape is the foundation for right bank wines, mostly to the town of Libourne’s eastern side. These wines are fleshier in general than wines from the left bank and are more pliant. They are also accessible at an earlier age—though the best of them can improve in bottle for decades.
Vinous, 91 points: Vivid ruby with a hint of amber: still quite youthful-looking. Smoky dark fruits and dried flowers on the nose, complicated by truffle and graphite. Then juicy and focused on the palate, with clean blackberry and dark...
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 90 points: Somewhat less evolved than the 1971 and for me always a shade less interesting and complex the 1970 Yquem is a large-scaled rich full-bodied fairly alcoholic Yquem with significant flavor interest as well as crisp...
Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages, 98 points: Very deep crimson. A very big-boned wine of great density. Some very strong menthol character with a touch of liquorice too and pretty dry on the finish. This seems to have taken on flesh since its rather austere youth...
Wine Spectator, 91 points: ...fragrant with plum floral and spice aromas round and velvety on the palate balanced and long...
Wine Spectator, 89 points: Pale garnet; cedary nose with vanilla nuances; very concentrated; shows elegant stylish cassis and tea flavors but lacks the density and vigor of Mouton and Latour; also not up to the Imperial bottle tasted earlier.
Wine Spectator, 87 points: Deep garnet; concentrated cedar and tar nose with hints of volatile acidity; very concentrated with chewy cassis and cedar flavors; short of its peak; promising.
Wine Spectator, 92 points: I drank a lot of this in Paris when I lived there in the mid-1980s. And I had a bottle this summer as well. Always outstanding. Shows intense aromas of prune and licorice. Full velvety and long. This is a beautiful...
Wine Spectator, 96 points: Deep garnet; fragrant tar and black truffle nose; extremely concentrated; big and mouth-filling with very dense cassis flavor; enormous generous fruit; a voluptuous claret.
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