2011 Domaine de Montille Pommard les Rugiens 1er Cru
by JJ Buckley Fine Wines
On Sale $87.94 (reg. $109.94)
Burgundy enthusiasts take note, Pommard may be the single most underappreciated village in Burgundy today, but what it lacks in grand cru it makes up for with over-achieving 1er cru at terrific prices. Universally considered to be of grand cru quality, Les Rugiens Bas is, along with Clos des Epenots, the finest vineyard in Pommard, and Domaine de Montille is one of the top interpreters of the site. This 2011 earned the “highest appraisal” from Neil Martin in his blind tasting of nine Les Rugiens, and Burghound gave it 92-94pts for “ultra-pure aromas of wet stone, floral hints, sandalwood and very fresh red berry fruit scents.” This is classic Pommard, a wine of serious stuffing that will reward great patience, but so tasty that being patient will be tough!
Hubert de Montille was a stalwart Burgundy traditionalist and passing the baton to his son wasn’t easy. Etienne spent years abroad, even bartending at Chez Panisse for a time, and on his return the clash of progress and tradition dominated the inter-generational relationship. Both father and son however were passionate about letting the terroir shine through and Etienne’s revolutionary changes, including transitioning to biodynamic in 2005, show in the bottle.
Vinous praised the “lovely intensity” and “excellent potential” of the 2011 Rugiens, while Burghound noted that Montille’s 2011s “transcend the general quality of vintage.” Despite its Volnay-like voluptuousness, this Les Rugiens is built for the cellar and will be best after 2020. A Montille Les Rugiens for under $90 is almost unheard of so contact us today!