2004 Nikolaihof Riesling Trocken Steinriesler
by JJ Buckley Fine Wines
Collectors of world-class dry Riesling are going to want to leap on today’s offer from Austria’s oldest estate. Quite rare and one of the most unique dry Rieslings the world over, Nikolaihof’s 2004 ‘Steinriesler’ is a late release Trocken that will impress lovers of the complex, powerful side of the noble grape. Even among the sometimes esoteric producers of Austrian Riesling, Nikolaihof stands out for their obsessive standards and ancient history. Atop a thousand-year-old cellar, Nikolaihof gives a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘late release’ giving the ‘Steinriesler’ Trocken Riesling a full 12 years of age before bottling, a practically an unheard-of practice. The years in cask lend this Trocken an intensely flavored profile that still seems phenomenally youthful today.
Savory, mineral, and endlessly intriguing, the 2004 Steinriesler shows outrageous length and energy, with notes of “sage, fennel, peach kernel, lemon, alkali and wet stone” chiming in on a palate that is “silken [and] buoyant“(Vinous). Of the Steinriesler, the Wine Advocate wrote that it “simply must be experienced to be believed.” Owned and operated by the Saahs family since they took over from a local monastery back in the 1890s, Nikolaihof has been breaking ground ever since and was the first Austrian producer to embrace biodynamic practices.
Available for the lowest price on the market, the Steinriesler can be enjoyed today with decanting, or cellar for another 10+ years! Cheers!