2007 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano
by JJ Buckley Fine Wines
On Sale $149.94 (reg. $199.94)
As the paradigm in Montalcino continues to veer back towards the classical style (emphasizing finesse and terroir) and away from the super-extracted oak juice, standouts like Valdicava continue to exist on a whole different plane altogether. Combining extraordinary textural richness, with no muddling of classic Sangiovese characteristics, the Valdicava ‘Madonna del Piano’ is a true riserva Brunello that will age for decades. This 2007 is already halfway there, and at ten years old this 98pt Brunello is just barely peaking through its drinking window, but will offer extraordinary evolution for years to come.
The ‘Madonna’ has been at the top of the heap for a generation now, in hot demand amongst collectors and restaurants alike, partly because Valdicava continues to keep production so low. Despite the nay-saying from those who shy away from full-bodied Brunelli, Valdicava’s ‘Madonna’ has enough of a track record to show that the density this wine has in its youth falls away with age, revealing a layered, complex Sangiovese that pleases traditionalists and modernists alike.
Only 800 cases of this 2007 Riserva were made, which for one of the most in demand bottlings of Brunello (with a global customer list) is a minuscule amount. If you love the perfect union of power and finesse that the best Brunello have, you will definitely want to lay down a few bottles, especially when it's available at an outstanding price for mature bottles with perfect provenance. Cheers!