2008 Domaine Tortochot Morey St Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru
by JJ Buckley Fine Wines
On Sale $44.94 (reg. $59.94)
While price and accessibility are no doubt the greatest barriers to great Burgundy today, patience is a close runner up as even the best village red Burgundy needs a 5-10 years to unwind. Fortunately today we have a gorgeous Aux Charmes 1er cru from Domaine Tortochot going on a decade old, and at just under $45 it’s a pretty unmissable deal!
The 2008 Aux Charmes is a superb mature example of why folks are starting to pay more attention to Morey St Denis. Nestled between Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin, good old Morey doesn’t always get the credit it deserves despite its four grand crus and twenty 1er crus, and its elegant profile often belies how well it ages. The Aux Charmes is proof of how delightful and unpretentious Morey St Denis can be with enough time in bottle to even out its rustic personality. Burghound described this ‘08 as “high-toned and very pinot nose that is both red and bright” and the Domaine as “old-school,” so there is plenty of forest floor and garden herbs in the profile.
The late Gabriel Tortochot’s daughter Chantal Michel has been in charge of this estate since 2001, and Clive Coates has praised the Domaine for great improvements in the past decade. But there is still a real sense of the Burgundy of old in this bottle (with cleaner winemaking). From a small family estate with 150 years and four generations behind it, the 2008 Aux Charmes 1er cru will delight today and over the next five years.