2012 Roger Coulon Champagne Brut Millesime Blanc de Noir
by JJ Buckley Fine Wines
On Sale: $79.94 (was: $89.94)*
The Coulon approach to Champagne is one of the most singular among the grower-producers, and while it would be easy to get bogged down in the technical details, the quality of the end result speaks for itself.
Coulon’s “beautifully expressive, resonant Champagnes” (Vinous) are renowned for their delicacy, complexity, and terroir thanks to a series of practices that would be more familiar to one of the great vignerons of the Cote d’Or than your average Champagne producer. Their aversion to chaptalization, excessive carbonation, or sulfur results in a lower alcohol, vinous style bubbly that is “intense, complex and full of character” (Wine Advocate), and this traditionally made Blanc de Noirs is a stunning example from the renowned grower-producer.
The Coulon family has been at it since 1806, and aside from the lower dosages of today, their methods remain quite faithful to those of Eric Coulon’s great-great-grandfather. The showpiece for this cuvee is their organically farmed vines in the premier cru village of Vrigny including a prized parcel of ungrafted, old-vine Pinot Meunier, which makes up half of the Blanc de Noirs. This is a stunning Champagne from the vintage and is a perfect pairing for food, but will reward cellaring. Cheers!
93 points, Wine Spectator: "The chiseled acidity and tactile, chalky edge to the texture gives this bold version more structure than many of its counterparts. Mouthwatering acidity invigorates a rich range of steeped raspberry, grilled nut, Mandarin orange peel and dried herb flavors that ride the creamy mousse. Pair with food, including grilled fish. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier."
*Offer publication date December 10, 2021. Pricing and availability subject to change.