2014 Tertre Roteboeuf (Saint Emilion Grand Cru)
by JJ Buckley Fine Wines
On Sale $169.94 (reg. $194.94)
Few wineries on earth, let alone in Bordeaux, enjoy the cult following of Tertre Roteboeuf, a small property on the limestone slope of Saint Emilion. Here, the independent-minded Mitjavile family do their own thing and produce, per Robert Parker, “one of Bordeaux’s most lavishly fruity and luxuriantly-endowed wines."
We’ve just got our hands on a very limited parcel of 2014 Tertre Roteboeuf direct from Bordeaux, and this double 94-point effort is an "exuberant, generous, incredibly sexy wine" that fans of top-tier Bordeaux will want to add to their collection.
Tertre Roteboeuf stands out from the pack for many reasons. That Tertre Roteboeuf is not a Premier Grand Cru Classé is very much by choice. The property deliberately avoids the Saint Emilion classification, cuts out the Place de Bordeaux distribution system and doesn’t even use the term “château” for their prized wine. Proprietor Francois Mitjavile trained at nearby Figeac before making his mark on his home property. Chris Kissack considers Tertre Roteboeuf “a very different style of Saint Emilion...the fruit character is different, and the texture is different”. Stylistic differences considered, Jeff Leve says that “since 1989, Tertre Roteboeuf has maintained [its] status as one of the best wines from Saint Emilion.”
Tertre Roteboeuf occupies an ideal location on the Côte Pavie, a prime piece of wine real estate that’s also home to such names as Larcis Ducasse, Troplong-Mondot and Pavie. It’s hard not to make world-class wines here, though Mitjavile applies his unique philosophy to the proceedings. His preference is for the latest possible harvest and low yields, giving rise to concentrated wines with buckets of individual vintage character. Per Antonio Galloni, it’s “the vision of the Mitjavile family that results in striking wines loaded with personality.”
With 2014, they've created another unique masterpiece in a long succession of top-flight wines. Neal Martin calls the 2014 Tertre Roteboeuf “very Burgundy-like in style” and that its en primeur barrel sample had an “extremely pure bouquet that almost whisks you away to the Côte d’Or”. Antonio Galloni hails it as “one of the most deeply personal, intriguing wines in St.-Emilion”, while for Jancis Robinson, it’s “very exotic and quite different from any other 2014 I have tasted...Exceptional!”
We've been long-time fans of Tertre Roteboeuf, having had the pleasure of tasting with the Mitjaviles at their property in Bordeaux as well as at our stateside offices. If you're looking for the best that the Right Bank has to offer, you'll be well served by adding this to your collection. Cheers!