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2017 Pio Cesare Barbaresco

Published

2017 Pio Cesare Barbaresco

On Sale: $74.94 (was: $84.94)*

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Pio Cesare is one of the guiding lights of Piemonte, and with 140 years in the business they have long offered a consistently high quality introduction into the wines of both Barolo and Barbaresco. While best known for their Barolo, Pio Cesare’s beautiful Barbaresco is a fascinating counterpoint to its famous neighbor, with a more refined and delicate expression of Nebbiolo that Pio Cesare has always managed to nail with exceptional consistency.

Their 95pt 2017 is not only another excellent release, but a sign that their stylistic return to a more classical approach has yielded wonderful results, allowing “the purity of Nebbiolo to be at its most expressive” (Galloni). That’s especially evident in today’s Barbaresco, which is incredibly refined, elegant, and of course deceptively well-built for aging.

“Steadfast and standing tall among the rest” (Wine Advocate), Pio Cesare has been a guiding light to other smaller wineries in the region for five generations, many of whom have followed in the shift away from excess oak and extraction. 2021 was a historic year for Pio Cesare, as they reached their 140th anniversary, but also saw the passing of longtime proprietor Pio Boffa. One of Piemonte’s most charismatic and influential advocates, Boffa famously argued that their generic Barbaresco/Barolo should never be called ‘regular’, as these multi-vineyard blends are actually the more traditional expression and ought to be on par with their single-cru releases. We agree that this 2017 Barbaresco is no entry level wine, but a truly high class bottling from the historic producer. Cheers!

95 points, James Suckling: "Aromas of dried orange, berry and hazelnut with hints of dried flowers. Tar, too. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and a juicy finish. The tannins are very fine and integrated. Chewy and encompassing flow across the palate. Very structured."

94 points, Wine Enthusiast: "Aromas of underbrush, ripe berry and tobacco mingle with balsamic notes of camphor. Full-bodied, with depth and weightless elegance, the taut palate features dried cherry, blood orange, licorice and graphite alongside firm, fine-grained tannins."

*Offer publication date February 18, 2022. Pricing and availability subject to change.