On Sale: $89.94 (was: $99.94)*
Very few names carry the sort of weight as Dominique Lafon, proprietor of Comtes Lafon, whose reputation as “one of Burgundy's most respected and forward-thinking vintners” (Wine Spectator) has never been stronger.
While many domaines in Burgundy are seeing a stylistic shift that comes with the transition to a younger generation, in Lafon’s case the long time winemaker is driving his own evolution at his eponymous side label. Offering a “more laid back and restrained” style (Galloni) than his legendary family domaine, the prices are a bit more favorable as well. Dominique Lafon’s lovely village Volnay is both refined and fresh, with the sort of depth and complexity you’d expect from biodynamically farmed old vines. It also comes in at a much better price than the $100+ Comtes Lafon Volany, and so offers a wonderful chance to see how Lafon, now “at the height of his powers” (Decanter), is evolving as a winemaker.
Lafon decided to go back to the basics in 2008, doing virtually all the cellar work himself out of a custom crush facility, though the biodynamic vineyard work is still done by the same team as at Comtes. This garagiste approach was Lafon’s way of exploring his own shifting style without altering expectations at his family winery. We know more than a few Burgundy fans who will prefer this “brighter and more vibrant” (Galloni) approach, with no compromise in quality. Die-hard fans of Comtes Lafon and newcomers alike will find a lot to love in Lafon’s 2018 Volnay. Cheers!
91-93 points, Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy: "This has a superb nose with vivid lively raspberry fruit, fresh, after which I am expecting good acidity and getting it. Classic balance here, really intense fruit without a sensation of over extraction. Very long. Shows the old vines. (5 stars - An outstanding wine in its category)"
*Offer publication date February 16, 2022. Pricing and availability subject to change.