The nose of the NV Champagne Grand Cru Conversation Brut lifts with a stylistically sweet perfume that translates through the entire range. It offers notes of sweet pastry, ripe peach, and honeydew melon, and the palate is medium-bodied and has ripe juicy fruit as well as a kiss of sweetness, with green apple candy, key lime, and white flowers. Approachable now, it would make a wonderful aperitif or an after dinner reset, given there is a hint of that generosity from the dosage. Drink over the next 8-10 years. - Audrey Frick

A rich, mouth-filling Blanc de Blancs for cool-climate, still-chardonnay fans! Serious creaminess and a discreet mousse. Not incredibly subtle, showing intense red-apple and peach-skin character, but the power and structure at the finish are impressive. Disgorged 24th September, 2020. Drink now.

Well-spiced and creamy, this is a balanced version, with candied pink grapefruit peel, pickled ginger and ground cardamom imparting a zesty edge to juicy pear and almond paste flavors. Disgorged February 2021. Drink now. - AN

Disgorged in April 2018, the current release of Vergnon's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Conversation continues to exhibit a charming nose of toasted coconut, green apples and ripe lemons. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with racy acids, a youthfully frothy mousse and a pure, chalky finish. Expressive and open, it's drinking well today. William Kelley -

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Conversation Grand Cru was picked in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger and Avize. With 20% reserve wine, it spent three years on lees. A shy nose proposes lemon and subtle sea breeze. The palate is lithe and bright and comes across as a barely-there ozone cloud transporting saltiness and freshness. Lovely, enlivening briskness and a touch of chalk define this sleek, taut wine. Dosage is 5gr/L. Disgorged: December 21, 2022. - Anne Krebiehl MW