Pale red-mahogany in colour with an olive-green tinge to the rim. Gloriously lifted and maderised on the nose with a touch of sultana, molasses and roasted coffee. Rich and beautifully intense on the palate; a smooth, slightly syrupy resonance offset by a lithe streak of acidity, which keeps the wine fresh all the way through. Long and languorous on the finish, with lovely toasty, malty complexity. Superbly laidback and hedonistic.

This is extremely refined, with a sleek-edged mix of green tea, date, white ginger, toasted sesame, bitter almond and bitter orange notes curling through, laced with flashes of salted caramel, singed alder and sandalwood. There's a dry, nervy spine through the finish, encased in a more flattering glycerol feel that adds amazing length, leaving echoes of all the elements in its wake. A special wine. Drink now. — J.M.

In addition, Taylor Fladgate has recently released a 1970 Single Harvest Port, the seventh in a series of limited-edition 50-year-old colheitas, aged in the Taylor Fladgate cellars at Vila Nova de Gaia, that comes suitably attired in a frosted glass bottle and beech wood box. Released from the end of May this year, it does not come cheap, at £220 per bottle. Maybe a little deeper in color than expected, deep mahogany with very slight green tints on the rim, it has a striking bouquet of dried quince, camphor, a touch of furniture polish and grilled walnuts, and later just a touch of espresso. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy opening: Chinese five-spice, cloves, satsuma and orange zest, then touches of California raisins and Medjool dates. Smooth and very sensual, this is a tempting and moreish Port with hedonistic flair. -- Neal Martin