From cold cellars, the 1979 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande continues to drink beautifully, and this example was one of the best I've enjoyed in recent years, offering up rich aromas of dark berries, cigar box and burning embers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy, sensual and complete palate. Not all bottles perform at this level, of course, but this wine is never less than outstanding. - William Kelley