Alongside its next-door neighbour, Latour, this, to me, is the wine of the vintage in the Medoc. It is an incredibly consistent performer and always an unlikely crowd pleaser, still loaded with sweet cherry red fruit. It’s more elegant in style than other vintages although you feel the sunshine in the wine which gives it weight. Archetypal Pauillac in character: cedar, cigar box leading to a wonderful finish. I adore how charming this wine is without being overbearing. At its peak now but will certainly hang on for a while.

This has always been one of the sexiest, most delicious wines from the 1981 vintage. It still possesses a dark ruby/purple color. While the 1981 is less powerful than the 1982 and 1983, it reveals copious quantities of sweet black currant fruit, good flesh for the vintage, and a pure, nicely-textured and balanced style. This wine remains vibrant and youthful. Anticipated maturity: Now-2002. Last tasted 6/97. - Robert Parker