Fonseca is one of the great port lodges producing the most exotic and most complex port. If Fonseca lacks the sheer weight and power of a Taylor Dow or Warre or the opulent sweetness and intensity of a Graham it excels in its magnificently complex intense bouquet of plummy cedary spicy fruit and long broad expansive flavors. With its lush seductive character one might call it the Pomerol of Vintage ports. When it is young it often loses out in blind tastings to the heavier weightier more tannic wines but I always find myself upgrading my opinion of Fonseca after it has had 7-10 years of age. The 1983 is magnificently scented full-bodied creamy rather forward but showing great length and character.</P>