Tough and closed in but there's plenty going on in the glass. A full-bodied wine with black cherry charcoal and light earth aromas and tons of flavor. Has super-firm tannins and a tight structure. Needs much more time.--Châteauneuf-du-Pape retrospective. Best from 1995 through 1997.

An example that possessed considerable brett from its inception as well as plenty of beefy sweaty horse smells is the 1983. This effort while slightly in decline still offers impressive aromatics (if you like your reds meaty and kinky) but the tannin is beginning to poke through at the back of the mouth. Rich and medium to full-bodied the 1983 is undoubtedly spectacular out of larger formats but from regular bottles it is beginning to show some fatigue even from my cold cellar. Drink it up.