Graham is another great port house producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous. Graham is the undisputed star and kingpin of the 1985 vintage ports. Yes it is made in a sweeter style than the other ports but it is a fabulous wine because of a dazzling level of black-cherry fruit an enormous structure and staggering depth dimension and length. It is forward as are all 1985s and I would speculate that this port will be approaching maturity by 1992-93 and will keep 15-20 years thereafter.

Dark color, with intense aromas of blackberry, licorice and hints of flowers. Full-bodied, lightly sweet, with superrefined tannins. Long and caressing. Very youthful. Will improve for a long time. This is really excellent. Always has been. Just starting to come around. '77/'85/'97 blind Port retrospective. Drink now. – JS

Very deeply coloured. Black core. Rich dark damsons, touch of smoky baked dark fruit and meatiness. Still a touch of violets. Very dark savoury fruit, like dark toffee but with a strong pepper on the palate. Dense but powder-fine tannins and they lighten beautifully on the finish. Lovely dry finish and paper soft after all that depth and dark ripe fruit. 17.5/20 (JH)