This opens with waves of tobacco, cured leather, truffles, smoke, cigar box, liquorice, charcuterie and spice. The most evolved of the six wines in this vintage comparison but gorgeous, with delicate, finely-spun tannins. It softens into sweet strawberry puree and brambled raspberry flesh, a sign that things are on the plateau but still with generosity and a quiet power. The more you sit with it the more it uncurls and draws you in. Hubert de Boüard had taken over from his father at this point, with a key point of rupture coming in 1985 after a split over dropping fruit during the growing season, making this a fascinating time of transition at the property, as Hubert then upped density of plantings, carried out soil studies, and generally moved towards the more modern shape of the wine. No records of exact blends, so this is an estimation. One for a book and a quiet corner. Joyous.

Still a dark garnet/purple color that shows some lightening at the edge this wine appears to be approaching a post-adolescent stage. A nose of earth licorice underbrush and black fruits is followed by a medium-bodied wine with a lot of structure muscle tannin and depth. Tannin is still present but the wine is showing very complex aromatics and good sweetness on the attack. Very drinkable yet capable of holding for at least another decade. Anticipated maturity: Now -2012. Last tasted 4/02.