A glorious Champagne that expresses both fresh fruit and nutty mature elements. The interplay of spring blossoms citrus and honey with hazelnut coffee and fresh grains against a backdrop of finesse and depth creates a dynamic dramatic impression. Showing its acidic structure at this stage but the finish previews what's to come if it's cellared. Best from 2004 through 2015. 1200 cases made. -BS

Profound finely nuanced single vineyard Champagne that weaves disparate elements into a stunning seamless whole. A full range of caramel floral citrus forest floor mustard greens and dried cherry aromas and flavors work in great harmony. The mouthfeel displays a positive brilliant tension: it's full-yet light bright and zingy-but even smooth yet to some tasters almost gravelly-textured. Lengthy lime-tinged the tight almost austere finish bodes a great long life ahead for this still-youthful 1988. W.E.

This is displaying moderate amounts of age with its distinctly yeasty and brioche-infused nose that offers really lovely complexity as well as a trace of citrus character. Like all of the best ‘88s today there is still excellent intensity and punch to the equally well-layered flavors that are shaped by firm effervescence that exhibits no signs of falling off, all wrapped in a markedly dry and ever-so-mildly austere finish. While this beauty has clearly peaked it shows zero signs of decline and thus can be enjoyed anytime over the next 20 years or so. now+