Dark brick-red color, with a garnet edge. Aromas of dark chocolate, meat and currant. Full-bodied, with a solid core of ripe fruit and round tannins. Goes on and on. Very balanced, with a beautiful mouthfeel. Long life ahead. This has always been a serious wine.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 14,000 cases made. –JS

Welcoming, tobacco and undergrowth aromatics, touches of smoked earth, grilled almonds, fine tannins, showcasing the finessed side of Cabernet as it ages. This has a gentle power, wild strawberry puree, brambled fruits with fresh acidities, lilting, subtle and a lovely moment to drink. Don't expect a Pauillac powerhouse here, but there is life in the glass, a mouthwatering finish and it has something to say. 55-60hl/h yield.

Tasted at The Ledbury Bordeaux-themed lunch. Consistent notes as previous occasions: as straight down the line classic Pauillac with an unashamed graphite-scented nose, a rather tannic but very well balanced palate with a surfeit of freshness, crisp and “energetic” on the finish, even if it refuses to take off its tie and blazer.

The 1988 Pichon-Longueville promises to be one of the half-dozen superstars of this vintage. Surprisingly large-scaled for a 1988, with an oaky, cassis, and licorice-scented nose, it is deep in color, rich, softly tannic, medium to full-bodied, and should reach maturity early on, but keep for 15-20 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. - Robert Parker