Of Aldo Conterno's 1989 Barolos, the Vigna Cicala is the one to drink first. Although the 1989 Barolo-Vigna Colonello is deeply colored, tannic, and backward, it displays tremendous potential for future evolution. The wine has an herb and tobacco character, huge body and extract, and considerable glycerin, tannin, and alcohol in the finish. It will not be at its best until the late nineties, but it should evolve gracefully through the first two decades of the next century. - Robert Parker