The 1989 Barbaresco Costa Russi is a thrilling wine that literally takes my breath away – and that comes from someone who usually isn’t the hugest fan of this particular wine. In 1989 the Costa Russi offers a touch more roundness and spiciness than the Barbaresco. The fruit here is super-luxurious and silky, while the tannins possess remarkable polish. The finish remains firm and full of life. Even 20 years ago Angelo Gaja and Guido Rivella were making wines most producers would kill for today. Simply put this is a magical bottle; I only wish I owned it. Wow. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.- AG

Another great and structured vintage with amazing ageing potential. It's perhaps a touch less complex on the nose than the 1989, but it nonetheless exhibits sweet leather and tobacco aromas as well as vibrant dried fruits. The attack is fresh and limpid, with firm tannins that support the structure, and there's sufficient acidity to refresh the palate. Highly concentrated, poised and very long.

Drinking wonderfully at the moment, but will improve further with age. Aromas of berry, mint, roses and violets follow through to a medium- to full-bodied palate, with round, velvety tannins and a ripe fruit aftertaste.--Piedmont retrospective. Drink now through 2010. 900 cases made. —