The 1990 Vieux Château Certan has a mature colour. It has a lovely nose with freshly picked mint and menthol infusing the red fruit, precocious and yet perfectly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied and more sensual than the 1989 on this occasion. Lovely roundness here, this 1990 has a gorgeous texture with a weighty hickory and truffle-tinged finish that lingers. It becomes more and more gamey with aeration, and I suspect well-kept bottles will offer another 12-15 years of pleasure. Tasted at the Vieux Château Certan dinner at La Trompette. -- Neal Martin

The 1990 Vieux Château Certan is drinking exceptionally well at the moment, although it does not quite possess the charm of the 1989. There is more primary fruit here than the previous vintage: black cherries, iodine and boysenberry, mingling with clove and tarry aromas that emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is similar depth here to the 1989 and yet the finish does not quite deliver the same delineation, although that cheeky dab of kirsch is pure delight. This is a great VCC, although I did notice that over a period of an hour, it fails to keep pace with the ever-meliorating 1989. Tasted January 2016. - Neal Martin